Fish Farming Training Module 6 of 7 Advanced Level About a 24-minute read Free, no sign-up

Check the Water First, Then Look for the Disease

Most outbreaks are a result, not a cause

The bacteria and parasites that cause disease are almost always in the pond the whole time. Healthy fish can hold them off. What lets them attack is a fish already stressed by low oxygen, high ammonia, swinging temperature, or rough handling.

That is why the order of checks is always the same. Measure oxygen, ammonia, nitrite, pH and temperature first. Only once all of them are normal does it make sense to look for a biological cause.

The most common freshwater fish disease symptoms and where they appear
Where the symptoms sit on the fish already narrows down the possible cause.Swipe the image sideways to see the detail.

Recognizing the Most Common Diseases

Symptoms, causes, and what triggers them

Common diseases in tilapia and catfish
Disease Visible symptoms Cause Most common trigger
White spot (ich) White dots like grains of salt on the body and fins, fish rubbing themselves Ichthyophthirius parasite Sudden temperature drop, prolonged cold water
Aeromonas (red sores) Red sores, raised scales, belly swollen with fluid Aeromonas hydrophila bacteria Injuries from grading, dirty water, stocking density too high
Streptococcosis in tilapia Bulging eyes, swimming in circles, curved body Streptococcus agalactiae bacteria Water temperature above 30 degrees, high stocking density
Fungus (saprolegniasis) White cotton-like tufts on wounds, fins, or eggs Saprolegnia fungus Open wounds, stripped slime coat, low temperature
Trichodina Excess slime, dull body color, fish listless and rubbing themselves Trichodina parasite Organic matter building up, water rarely siphoned
Gill flukes Pale or swollen gills, fish gasping even though oxygen is fine Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus High stocking density, fingerlings brought in from the hatchery
Fish louse (argulus) Greenish brown specks that move, attached to the body Argulus parasite Water coming in from an open source without being filtered

Bulging eyes in tilapia are a telltale sign

If your tilapia have bulging eyes, swim in circles, or their bodies curve, it is most likely streptococcosis. The disease hits hardest when the water is above 30 degrees and stocking density is high. Bring the temperature down with shade, reduce the stocking density, and separate the fish showing symptoms as fast as you can, because it spreads very quickly.

Treatment and Doses

Numbers to use carefully

Common treatments and their doses
Substance Dose Method and duration What it treats
Coarse salt 5 to 10 grams per liter Long bath in the quarantine pond Slime coat recovery, stress relief, mild fungus
Coarse salt About 30 grams per liter Short bath of 10 to 30 minutes External parasites, with the fish watched the whole time
Potassium permanganate 5 to 10 grams per cubic meter Bath of about 1 hour Trichodina, white spot, other external parasites
Formalin 10 to 15 milliliters per cubic meter Bath of at least 4 hours with strong aeration External protozoa and fungus
Shade and lower stocking density Not a chemical Sustainable Streptococcosis in tilapia, the most effective prevention

Two rules you must not break

First, potassium permanganate and formalin must never be mixed or used close together in time, because the two can react violently. Leave a few days between them if you really need both. Second, test on a few fish in a separate container before treating the whole pond. Water with a lot of organic matter makes a dose behave very differently from the calculation.

One practical guide for potassium permanganate: the right dose is the lowest one that still keeps the water pink for four to eight hours. If the color fades faster than that and you need more than 6 grams per cubic meter, it means there is too much organic matter in your pond. Fix the cleanliness first, because treating dirty water never works.

Always increase aeration during any treatment. Almost every substance above lowers dissolved oxygen, and sick fish are the least able to take that.

Biosecurity

Keeping disease out is far cheaper than treating it

Footbath at the entrance

Replace the solution on a schedule, do not just top it up. A solution that has gone cloudy no longer kills anything.

Quarantine new fingerlings

Hold new fingerlings one to two weeks in a separate container before combining them. Most disease is brought in from outside.

Work from healthy ponds to sick ponds

The daily order of work always starts with the healthiest pond. Never the other way around.

Filter the incoming water

Water from a river or an open channel carries wild fish, parasite eggs and lice. Settle and filter it first.

No tools shared between ponds

Nets and buckets are best kept per pond. If you have to share, dip and dry them between uses.

Remove dead fish every day

A carcass left in the pond becomes both a source of infection and a drain on oxygen. Dispose of it well away from the pond area.

Questions About This Module

What participants ask most often

Why do tilapia's eyes bulge out?

That is the telltale symptom of streptococcosis, a disease caused by the bacteria Streptococcus agalactiae. The other symptoms that come with it are fish swimming in circles, curved bodies, and deaths rising quickly.

The trigger is almost always water above 30 degrees together with high stocking density. Bring the temperature down with shade, reduce the density, separate the fish showing symptoms as fast as you can, and fix the water quality. It spreads very quickly, so how fast you separate them decides the outcome.

What causes fungal disease in catfish?

Fungus from the Saprolegnia group. The symptom is white cotton-like tufts stuck to wounds, fins, or eggs.

This fungus is really an ordinary decomposer that is always in the water. It only attacks fish whose skin is already injured or whose protective slime coat has been stripped, usually after rough grading or handling with dry equipment. So the prevention is not a medicine, it is handling the fish properly.

What is the salt dose for treating fish?

There are two different methods. A long bath in the quarantine pond uses 5 to 10 grams of coarse salt per liter of water, to help the slime coat recover and reduce stress on the fish. A short bath uses about 30 grams per liter for ten to thirty minutes to kill external parasites.

In a short bath the fish must be watched the whole time and taken out at once if they show signs of stress. Use coarse salt without iodine, and increase aeration while it runs.

Can potassium permanganate and formalin be used together?

No. The two can react violently if they are mixed. If you really need both, leave a few days between them and make sure the water is clear of the first one.

For potassium permanganate, the right dose is the lowest one that still keeps the water pink for four to eight hours. If you need more than 6 grams per cubic meter, it means there is too much organic matter in the pond and the cleanliness is what has to be fixed first.

The fish are sick but I checked the water and it is normal, what is the next step?

Take a few fish showing symptoms, then check them in order, from the outside in. Look over the body surface for spots, wounds, or cotton-like tufts. Lift the gill cover and look at the color, because healthy gills are bright red, not pale or brownish.

Watch the behavior too. Rubbing against things means external parasites. Gasping when oxygen is fine means a gill problem. Swimming in circles or a curved body means a nervous system problem, usually bacterial. Separate the fish showing symptoms before you treat anything.